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Constructing a chamber for the steam setting of Dyes Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
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KiteSquid
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Joined: 29 Aug 2003
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Location: USA Virginia King George

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:16 am    Post subject: Constructing a chamber for the steam setting of Dyes Reply with quote

To properly set dyes on Nylon and Polyester they need to be subjected to moist heat (immersed in an atmosphere of steam) for 1 hour or more depending on the chemistry of the dyes and the fabric. I want to scale up my steamer as I have some projects that I want to do that are bigger than my current steamer can accommodate.

My current steamer is made from 6’ length of 8” galvanized stove pipe. It will rust over the years but it was inexpensive to construct. I also steam at atmospheric pressure, but if I could go to 2 or 3 atmospheres it would make the colors more vibrant and cut the time down. If I go to pressure the chamber needs to be SAFE (see comments below)

I would like to make a chamber that is at least 4’x 4’ square and 8’ tall. Also if it is expandable and reconfigurable that would be nice...... I know that the smaller the chamber is the less steam I need to produce, but a LARGE chamber would be quite nice!!!!!!!!!

Construction Considerations

Safety: I don’t want to get burned so I would prefer that the outside of the structure stay close to room temperature.

Cost: The materials should be inexpensive as every dollar spent on it’s construction and operation is one less dollar I can spend on kite parts. FREE is good, so if any of you know where I can go dumpster diving to find some of these parts, let me know!!!!!!!

Ease of use: The material should be able to be cut with the tools I have on hand, a table saw, circular saw, router, etc. I do not own a welder but I may have access to one.

Durability: I don’t want to have to replace it every year, so long lasting materials are paramount. It has to be able to withstand moisture and heat that the steam will subject it to.

Non Reactive Materials: It needs to be made out of materials that will not react with the dyes. Aluminum parts are not aloud.



Nice to have features:

Easy to break down and setup. I may want to transport it some day, or to change the size of it.


Possible materials:

I am trying to think of materials that are readily available in most areas of the country....

PVC Pipe or other plastic sheeting or pipe: I don’t know how plastics will handle the heat over time... Will I end up with an expensive piece of modern art????? Do any of you have any experience with PVC pipe and Steam? I have seen on the web where boat builders will steam wooden slats in lengths of PVC pipe.

Stainless Steel: It is Non Reactive, but EXPENSIVE. But if it is Stainless I could have it designed to be a pressure vessel, but this takes licensing as a boiler, pressure testing and assembly by a certified welder so the cost goes WAY up!!!!! Do any of you work at a hospital that has an LARGE Sterilizer that they don’t need anymore??????

Closed Cell Foam (Styrofoam) I called Dow chemical and they said that I cannot subject Styrofoam to greater than 165 F repetitively as it will break down, but 2” thick foam is at the BORG with a R10 value and it is reasonably structurally sound, but should be protected as it dents easily. It works easily with hand and power tools.

Fiberglass.... I’m still thinking about this one.

Wood: Wood is easy to work but does not handle moisture and heat well.... but the inside of most saunas are wooden. I don’t like the porosity of wood as I don’t want it to absorb the dyes, but I could finish the wood with some type of coating that would handle high temperature & moisture environment of steam.

Galvanized Sheet Steel: or just make another out of larger diameter duct or rectangular duct work......


Any comments????????
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KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA


P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.
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saF



Joined: 08 Jan 2005
Posts: 52
Location: Cornwall, Prince Edward Island, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Squid, what are you currently using to generate the steam? Does this need to be part of the chamber or can it be separate and attached via a hose or pipe?

You have me thinking...

How would a plywood box, lined with galvanized sheet metal, work? Something that can be taken apart to be transported and stored... Might be a little hard to make it air-tight and able to hold a higher pressure.

Hmm... the gears are turning..... Rolling Eyes

saF
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kitepoor



Joined: 05 Sep 2003
Posts: 317
Location: USA Virginia Harrisonburg

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are talking about the same basic thing that the guys who build bent wood rockers, snow shoes, and wooden boats use to steam their material in preperation to bend. I would check the wood sites. My Wood Bending Handbook spends more time on the wood and very little time on the chest, other than to point out that you must have a safety valve.

I would be looking at really large pvc tubes 12-18 inches with glue on threaded cleanouts. It is fairly easy to mount a pressure gage (used to pretest a waste system), and possibly a water heater pop off valve in pvc. (I think)

One guy built a steamer for the Boys Scouts, but he was an engineer with a big commercial machanical contracter here. He think he brought cool stuff home from work for the project, with blessing, because it was for the scouts.

The last drawing I recall had something like a tea kettle with a cobbled lid with flexible tubing that hooked onto the steam chamber.

Know any wooden boat builders that bend their own?
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saF



Joined: 08 Jan 2005
Posts: 52
Location: Cornwall, Prince Edward Island, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kitepoor wrote:
You are talking about the same basic thing that the guys who build bent wood rockers, snow shoes, and wooden boats use to steam their material in preperation to bend. I would check the wood sites. My Wood Bending Handbook spends more time on the wood and very little time on the chest, other than to point out that you must have a safety valve.
.....


I had thought of the same thing, but KiteSquid indicated he wanted 4 FEET by 4 FEET by 8 FEET... Shocked

Lee Valley, Oh lovely Lee Valley , has a free booklet on steam bending wood that includes instruction for building a steam box:



And they sell the kettle and pipe shown in the image, http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=42176&cat=1,45866

I have also seen plans that use ABS or PVC pipe in a large diameter (8" or more) though you have to build a supporting structure because the pipe can bend when hot (especially the ABS). I head of someone who had the pipe on a set of saw hoses and when he came back to remove the heated wood strips, both ends and the center of the pipe had drooped and were touching the floor! Laughing

saF
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KiteSquid
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Joined: 29 Aug 2003
Posts: 3496
Location: USA Virginia King George

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

saF wrote:
Squid, what are you currently using to generate the steam? Does this need to be part of the chamber or can it be separate and attached via a hose or pipe?saF


My current steam generator is a Stainless Steel pot on a Coleman Camp Stove.

I have to operate it outside due to the fuel.

I plan on making one useing the elements from an electric water heater so I can operate it indoors but it would require 220 VAC


I really dont want to pressureize anything I home build!!!!!!!! TOOO MUCH ENERGY and danger of blowing the house off the foundation!!!!!!!!!!
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KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA


P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.
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Spence602



Joined: 16 Sep 2003
Posts: 475
Location: USA TX Houston

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about finding a discarded hot water heater and using the inner steel tank (with a bonded glass liner)?

I also found this at http://www.artistresource.org/market.htm:
Quote:
Don Ayre Bay Area
Upright silk steamer made to order for home or professional use, ideal for teaching classes. It takes fabric up to 46" wide, and up to 60" with an optional extension. It is 5' high with a 1'sq footprint and is easy to move about. Steamer $300, Extension $74, 1 Year Warranty, Visa Mastercard. Can be shipped UPS. Tel: 650 855 9995
Email: donfront@frontiernet.net


Have you contacted Linda Vinson http://www.dyeingtoplease.com/Press.htm to see how she steams her 60"x144" pieces?

For those of you (and me) who didn't know what a galvenized stove-pipe steamer might look like: http://www.isabellawhitworth.co.uk/techniques/steaming/steaming.html
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KiteSquid
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

saF wrote:
Lee Valley, Oh lovely Lee Valley , has a free booklet on steam bending wood that includes instruction for building a steam box:


After reading Lee Valley's booklet, I love this quote:

Lee Valley Tools wrote:


The Steam Chamber

"Keep it simple" is the rule here.


I will try to KISS this project. The use of exterior grade plywood with silicone caulk looks good, as the Silicone can handle temps up to 500 F or so.

And some fiberglass insulation or what ever I can find that is water proof and cheep.... (Does anybody work at Dow or Owens Corning?????

And I will probably just line the bottom with newspaper to absorb any dripping dye for disposal.

saF wrote:
And they sell the kettle and pipe shown in the image, http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=42176&cat=1,45866


Their steam source is not big enough for my project.... so I will build my own.

I would prefer to find a 110 V immersion type heating element but the 220 V elements from water heaters are so cheep and easy to find!!!!!!!
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KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA


P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.
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KiteSquid
Master Kite Builder
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Joined: 29 Aug 2003
Posts: 3496
Location: USA Virginia King George

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What will this cost???

Steam Chamber:

5 sheets of 3/4"exterior grade plywood at $24 per sheet

box of stainless screws

Stainless hinges

stainless latches (or I may try to figure out how to use Velcro)

Possiably some insulation

Router bits to cut the Tounge and grove joints

Tube of Silicone Caulk

3 or more Easy to read thermometers



Steam Generator:

length of steel pipe for body of steam generator

2 water heater elements

Switch, box and wire to run electrical

pipe to run steam into chamber

Deflector to spread steam



install a 220V outlet in the KiteCavern

Install Sink in KiteCavren
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VR/
KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA


P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.
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saF



Joined: 08 Jan 2005
Posts: 52
Location: Cornwall, Prince Edward Island, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What will this cost???

I would also include some 2X4's (or something larger) to help frame and support the box. It's going to be a bit large....

saF
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kitepoor



Joined: 05 Sep 2003
Posts: 317
Location: USA Virginia Harrisonburg

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or visit Harrisonburg...
Why tongue and groove joints? You adhesive will do most of the work.
Insulation... Check with your local big flat roof aplicator, they sometimes give away white bead board in 6"x4'x8' sizes. The guy here said it is cheaper for him to bring it back to the shop and give it away than pay land fill, and besides you get to do something useful with it.
Why stainless steel screws? your fasteners are not on the wet side...
Is there a known ratio for cubic feet of chamber to amount of steam?
How about a turkey cooker for heat, besides then you could do reallllllly cook a tasty turkey, they come in propane, and now electric...
Can you roll your work between layers of something to keep the dye from going from layer to layer? I imagine a layer of quilt batting on boths sides of plastic sheeting. Then you could use a small chamber
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