Kitebuilder Online

[woodpekr]

I have trouble whenever I use a straight edge to guide my Olfa rolling cutter. Either I wander up onto the straight edge or I wander away from it (over correcting for going on to the straight edge) is there a trick to this? It looks simple but it causes trouble for me each time I try.

If I draw a line with a pencil I'm able to split the line most of the time rolling free hand, even though there's a nice zen feel to doing that, it seems a bit slow.

Are you folks doing anything special to get your rolling cutter to track to the side of a straight edge?

Thanks
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Rich Durant
Portland, Oregon

[Kitesquid]

My straight edge is a 1/8" thick piece of Aluminum that is 3" wide so I can keep my fingers away from the blade. They are sold as rullers, but I put the marked side down...

I think the trick is to keep the blade straight up and down.

Also use the largest diamater blade you have. I use a 60 mm blade and I wish they made a larger one....
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VR/
KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA


P.S. Yet another long winded post by the Squid.....

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.

[Don Lord]

My first try at roller cutting was with a 45mm blade-today I used a 60mm blade cutter-great improvement in control. As for the ruler, whenever I can I use a non-slip ruler, which has a high enough profile to prevent the blade from climbing, but for accuracy on must keep the cutter has close to vertical as possible, and lead slightly into the ruler to prevent wandering.

I find that the 60mm blade works just as well with a quilting ruler, but requires more attention to guide it, so as not to stray. But you get a higher degree of accuracy, because the edge is in contact with the fabric right where the blade hits.
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Don Lord

[Russ Mozier]

I seem to cut better with a roller cutter when I pull the cutter towards me instead of pushing it away from me.

[Don Lord]

I gave the pull method a try today, and while the first couple of cuts were awkward, I soon got the hang of it and I felt I had more control on the amount of pressure to apply, as easier to maintain a better contact with the ruler. Of course there are situations where you are almost obligated to use the push method, but all in all, I believe it's a good work method.

From a safety point of view, in the event of a finger holding the ruler getting in the way, the first thing to touch it would be the blade guard and not the blade
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Don Lord

[rbojarski]

I use a Logan aluminum ruler that is supposed to be used for cutting mat boards. The ruler is a little over 2 feet long, and has a nice rule on one side. The other side has a track that the mat cutting tool is supposed to fit into. This also results in a nice flat edge about 1/4 to 3/8 inch high that acts as a good guide for the rolling cutter. The Logan ruler also has rubber strips on the bottom of the ruler to help keep the thing from sliding around. The one I use is about 6 years old. Here's a link for a mat cutting straight edge sold by Light Impressions.

http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping?Dsp=20200&PCR=30000:230000:239000:239100&R=9904

They aren't cheap, but the one I have works great. I tried cutting fabric with another aluminum ruler, without the rubber strips, and I had problems getting a straight line, because the rule slipped all over the fabric.

Ray Bojarski

[Barbara]

Have to tell you, I just cringe when you talk about pulling a rotary cutter towards you. Hope you have 911 on speed dial, and a supply of bandages handy. The quilters newsgroup is full of accident stories doing just that!
There is no trick, just practice and control. The 45mm is a good size, bigger is not better. If you are cutting small pieces, even as 28mm works well. Cut with the blade right next to your ruler, look at your cutter one side is almost flat, the other has the screw etc. Take your time, it does not have to be fast. The larger the ruler, the heavier and the less likely to slip. I found an 8" wide x 24" long quilters ruler, purchased 3 of them, and joined them on the 8" side with clear packing tape. This gives me a really long, heavy straight edge to work with, spanning the width of the Ripstop. My ruler has slotted openings in it. Get some push pins that are made to go into your cutting mat. Alternate them from one side to the other down the length of the cut to help hold the ruler in place. Splay out your fingers and use your body weight to hold down the ruler. sometimes with a long cut, I lay my entire forearm down on the ruler to help hold it. There is also an L shaped guard you can buy and stick on the edge of the ruler as an added safety feature. That I've even seen at Walmart.
Oh, and ALWAYS close your guard the instant you finish the cut. Dropping it with the guard opens ruins the blade, and can cut off toes. Grabbing it with the blade open is also very painful, and the blood will stain your fabric, not a good alternative to other dyeing techniques.
Come talk to me at MAKR or Fort Worden for a personal lesson.
Barbara

[kitepoor]

Places like Lowes sell an extruded clear plastic outside corner guard to protect wall papered corners. I bet one could double stick tape those things down onto a straightedge to make a home made finger saver, and make it easier to pick up as well...
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Randy
How come the nicest kite weather comes
when I have the most work to do

[wdrwilson]

[Scott E. Spencer]

Russ said he likes the pull method. Well why not. I'm gona try it. Tired of the some old thing.
What he forgot to say is, he is left handed.
This should not make a difference.
But with Russ he likes to veiw things in a different "handed" way.
He has impressed me several times at our local (SJKF) workshops.
The other handed concept can produce some impressive ideals, styles and graphics.

One persons floor is anothers ceiling.
It just depends on were your standing.