Kitebuilder.com - Fly... with a little help from your friends.

[kiteguy]

Someone asked me for the plans to the bol that I developed for a club kitebuilding class.

So, here is a relisting of the "plans" for that bol, which have no pictures because I had my bol to show to the group for illustrating a point. It is simple enough a project that probably there are no pictures needed.

MAKR Bol
March 2003
By Dave Ellis

This bol was developed from a 12 inch bol that some one was passing around at a kitebuilders retreat (Pam? 3 years a go, and I forget who.). This is where the name MAKR Bol comes from.

After LOTS of variations I finally came up with something that I liked, and figured it was simple enough to present to a class.

1. You will need 12 isosceles triangles. Make each triangle 2 ½ time s the base. If you use a 20 inch base, then you can cut the triangles from the full width of ripstop. By flipping the pattern end for end for each cut you will use all your material with no waste. Color of your choice
A. OPTIONAL: Now to add interest, and illusion of having more triangles, bisect each isosceles triangle from the apex to the base forming 24 right angles. Mix the pieces up into pairs with colors fitting to colors of your choice, and sew them together, back into isosceles triangles. I use a simple lap seam to do this. Just lap the 90 degree sides together with about ¼ inch overlap and sew with a 3 step zig zag. I use no tape, and just sew so they look about right.

2. Now sew a single fold hem completely around each triangle. Put a reinforcement into one of the base corners as you sew the hem. Sew this reinforcement across the end that is on the sail face first. Then fold the edges over and sew in place. That way you can have the edge of the reinforcement inside the hem. Duplicate this process for all (12?) panels, or however many you are going to use. I use 10 - 12 most of the time.

3. Next you will put an attachment tab on the corner with the reinforcement patch. I use a 1 inch wide piece of ripstop folded into thirds along the length. Then I cut off 3 inch sections. I sew these to the corners with the corner inside the tab. That way part of the tab is on the inside of the triangle, and the other part is outside. That leaves around ¼ inch tab hanging over the corner for attachment of the bridle lines.

4. Upon completition of the hemming and attaching bridle tabs you are ready to assemble. I just measure ½ of the base down the side of the triangle with the tab on each piece of the bol.

5. This done take two triangles, put the side without a tab against the other triangle on the tab side, top corner matching to the mark. Overlap the edges and sew them together. Be sure to back stitch well at the top of the triangle where they fasten together.

6. Repeat this step again and again until all triangles are sewn together. Then take the last one sewn on and sew it to the first. At this point I usually sew completely around the outside edge of the bol. I also sew completely around the hole in the back of the bol.

7. Time to fasten on the bridle. I cut 12 pieces of bridle line about 1 ½ times the diameter. Going even longer is fine, maybe preferred. I fold over the end of each line about 4 inches and form a loop by tying an overhand knot.

8. After forming the loops I hook the lines on a nail in the rafter of my basement workshop, and pull the lines together and cut so all are the same length. (NOTICE: Before cutting the lines I pre-stretch the bridle line.)

9. When they are sized I melt a knob on the end of each line. OPTION: you could tie an overhand knot on the end of each line. This might make it more secure.

10. After the knobs/knots are formed I use a slip knot to fasten one line onto each bridle tab on the bol. Just thread the end of the line with the melted knob through the loop and tie it into a slip knot. This is done by tying an overhand knot around the standing line.

11. I prepare a 12 inch length of heavier bridle line into a loop with an overhand knot. I bring all 12 loops together, thread the 6 inch loop of line through them, and fasten with a double larks head knot.

12. This loop is where I fasten a heavy duty, ball bearing swivel. I get the swivels that do not have clips from Cabalas, but any good sports store with fishing equipment should have them. I fasten the swivel to the loop on the bridle line with a double larks head knot, or a slip knot. Another loop the same size the other in step 12 is fastened to the other side of the swivel with a double larks head knot and the bol is ready to fly.

I fasten a strong strap handle on mine so I can put it into the hands of spectators, and let them feel the power of the wind. I also like to fly mine from a kite line, or on the ground from a 5 ft pole.

If you would like directions on how I make one of these, let me know. It would not take long to post some photos and directions.
_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[jamescrumley]

Dave,

I would greatly appreciate your posting the directions for making a bol.

Jim

[MNKiter]

[kiteguy]

_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[kiteguy]

look in the photo album under LINE ART to see many photos of bols like this one, and others.

And, yes, it does spin.

This one I made could be used in 'races' but they would be rather slow motion races. It is abut 8 ft diameter and does an excellent job of inflating.

I used the same plan to make various size ones. The 3 ft one could be used for races. However, made to the 4 ft diameter size would be best.
_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[MNKiter]

[kiteguy]

Here is another photo of the same bol.



I have a tethered 5 ft tall pole from which I fly the bol. It helps the bol to inflate, and re-inflate if there is a wind lull. That is another story.
_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[Ninjak2k]

I wanted to bring up this thread again to ask if someone could make a simple drawing showing how the triangles lie next to each other for sewing. I'm just not quite able to visualize what is being done from the description. Very interested in giving this a go.

Thanks!

~Dan

[Grant L]

[Ninjak2k]

Thanks, Grant. I was looking at that plan too. I didn't think they were the same due to the extra bridle lines. They do seem to share similar characteristics, but that one is using right triangles instead of isosceles triangles. Are those the only differences?

I guess the descriptions I'm really trying to clear up are these two steps:

[kiteguy]

I put the pieces together just like the look in the 24 panel bol. Almost.

I pre hem all the pieces using a straight stitch. Then when I put them together I just lay one piece on top of the adjacent piece, overlapping the hems. Then sew the lap seam with a 3 step zig zag.

I did this for simplification of sewing in the workshop atmosphere. In the process I discovered that I like doing it that way. Much easier. I don't think anybody else does it this way. Me, I strive for the KISS principal.

Only one bridle line for each panel is needed on this bol vs the 24 panel. The 12 panel bol has more of a parachute action in capturing the air.

With the 24 panel the extra line pulls the center in a bit to capture the air. In effect that creates 24 little kites attached together. Each is trying to fly up, as well as the angles of the panels are making them spin.

There, did that help confuse you?
_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[kiteguy]

WAIT! On step four, I am trying to describe how far down you put the next triangle. Something around 1/2 the base length. So, if your triangle has a base of 24 inches, put the point down appx. 12 inches to start sewing in place.

This seems the optimal distance. If it is longer it spins less. In my development I put it down equal to the width of the triangle. It did not spin at all, and refused to fill with air.

If you use right angles, I am not sure how the placement works. Maybe joining equal distance to the end of the angle would work???
_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[Ninjak2k]

Thanks kiteguy! Alright, another clarifying question for you:

[Ninjak2k]

And is this what you mean by how far to put the triangle down?



~Dan

[kiteguy]

Both would work. I used the one on the left where the bisecting line was 2.5*b.

Actually, on my RWB bol I used two right angles sewn with a lap seam to make the isoclese triangles. That makes the bol look more complex.

I based the size on the height of the triangle on the roll with the material I was using. There was almost no waste of material. I like that.
_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[Ninjak2k]

I think I may have posted the second image as you were responding. Is that the appropriate offset? Please ignore the crooked measurement lines as I freehanded it in MS Paint.

Thanks! Looking forward to this project.

~Dan

[kiteguy]

[kiteguy]

_________________
[

Dave Ellis
Kites + Kids = Education

[Ninjak2k]

Oh, duh! I'd meant to make that b/2. Great, I think I have all I need to get started.

~Dan

[gkiteguy]

One more question. While the most popular fabric is .75 oz ripstop. It just seems to me, a heavier fabric like 1.5 oz ripstop would stand up to scraping on the beach, or field. If you plan to make a larger 8-10 foot bol, would the extra weight keep it from working well? Or should I just use that stuff for bags, etc.