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ChaoticGemini



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 2:31 pm    Post subject: rip stop dye questions Reply with quote

I was thinking about trying to dye some Ripstop with a batik-type process.

What type of dyes will stick to coated fabric?

How can I remove the wax without damaging the Ripstop, or is there something (like masking fluid) I can use other than wax?

Thanks,
Tina
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KiteSquid
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Joined: 29 Aug 2003
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Location: USA Virginia King George

PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 4:15 pm    Post subject: Re: <a href= Reply with quote

ChaoticGemini wrote:
I was thinking about trying to dye some Rippstop with a batik-type process.


Tina, WELCOME to Kitebuilder forums!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great!!!!! Sombody else who wants to color their own fabrics!!!!

Batik is defined as fabric dying useing a removable wax where the dye is not wanted.

Tina, can you provide some links to some phots of the types of results you are looking for.... I dont want to make any assumptions here.....

ChaoticGemini wrote:
What type of dyes will stick to coated fabric?


There are two parts that your question MUST be broken down into.

1. Type of fabric you are talking about...

Currently there are two types of Rippstop fabrics that modern kite buildiers are using. Nylon and Polyester.

Nylon fibers are dyed using Acid Dyes. DONT let the name scare you, they are only slightly acidic, about like Lemon Juice NOT battery Acid.

Polyester fibers are dyed using Dispurse Dyes only and to set Dispurse dyes at atmopheric pressure (that means without the use of a giant and EXPENSIVE pressure cooker, I found a USED on for $18,000) you must use a swelling agent. The dye vendors have this....

Both types are set at high tempature and moisture. I use a bath of steam for this.

2. The coatings you are trying to dye thur.

Nylon fabrics are coated with propritary forumula coumpounds that repell water, because when Nylon gets wet by either getting liquid water on it, or by picking up moisture from the air, it streatchs MORE than when it is dry, so the sail will not be in the shape designed by the sail manufacturer...

These coatings hinder the dying process but repelling the water that carries the dyes..... I know of three ways around this, two of which are reasonable safe. You can buy Greige Goods, menaing fabrics that have not ben coated, or you can use special coumpounds to get the dyes into the fibers without removing the coatiings. The third and IMHO VERY unsafe way is to remove the coatings and it involves using some DANGEROUS methods that I will not talk about here due to safety concerns, and you might as well buy Greige Goods to save a lot of expense and time.....

Now were was I????

ChaoticGemini wrote:
How can I remove the wax without damaging the Rippstop, or is there something (like masking fluid) I can use other than wax?


There is masking fluids you can use to make a fence type line and that is what I used on the Iris Edo I made a few years back, but my dying skills were seriously lacking..... look in the SquidColors folder to see it and some of the other fabrics I have dyed using modified Tye Dye processes.....

I used a waterbased resist called Presist and silk painting techniques on the Iris Edo.

I dont think that a vat dyeing process would work well as the wax would come out at a boil where the dyes need to be to set properly.....

Let me think for a while..... and PLEASE provide some links to some photos of what you are trying to acheive!!!!!


Good Luck and keep us informed of your progress!!!

AND read the MSDS sheets for all dyes/Auxiliaries that you are planing to use BEFORE you buy them, as you want to protect your health and the health of your family!!!!!!!!! SAFETY FIRST when it comes to chemicals and tools!!!!!!!!
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AKA Harold
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P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.
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dpb
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some batik designs transfer well to resist techniques and others don't (See http://www.batikfineart.com/). For those that do not, I would suggest high quality, light cotton (or silk) instead of Ripstop.

Dave
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ChaoticGemini



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi KiteSquid

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I have images of kites in my head, it's just a matter of trying to find a means to get them out. Very Happy Doing artwork on kites is a whole new medium to me, so I hope I'm not asking too many questions.

Is there a certain type of acid dye I should look for or avoid?

Do you mind sharing the "special compounds" you use to get the dye to adhere? I already have a lot of coated fabric.

Your Iris Edo is some nice work! The tie dye designs look cool too.

I don't have any specific picture I'm trying to create, just some line drawings on paper right now and pictures in my head. My ideas are varied. One design is based on pysanky art (ukrainian eggs). Another involves celtic knotwork. Yet another concept would involve painting the dye to look like a water coloring.

I'm familiar with using wax on other materials, but I didn't know how I could get it off of Ripstop without damaging it. I was also thinking about masking fluid (like that used in watercolor painting). Since you say the dyes need to be heat set with water, perhaps the liquid masking fluid would work.

My hope is to extend my artwork on to kite sails. If my ideas are way to ambitious, please let me know. Perhaps there may be an entirely different method I may need to use, but I asked about this process because it is all I could think of.

Tina
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EBGB
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Joined: 29 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Squid,

Tina's not the only one interesting in dyeing fabrics!

I'm betting that there are a bunch of us, just quietly waiting for the guru to share his wisdom. Pray

I'd love to be able to do watercolor style painting, do shading with an airbrush, or just dye some "fade" fabrics.
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wdrwilson



Joined: 24 Oct 2003
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Location: Canada, Nova Scotia, Halifax

PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this isn't really all that precise and probably not as nice as the method Squid suggested but try using good old laundry dye like RIT Dye found in the super market or in WalMart. I have had good results just using the dye in really hot water in my laundry tub. also for deeper colors try and do it on the stove. The colors are not as brilliant and it probably won't work with Polyester but on coated Ripstop it seemed to work well.

Imagin's Inca kite uses fabric that is dyed in this manner.. here is a photo.


--Bill
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dpb
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honest Tina, I am not trying to blow smoke at you. Most kite makers in America are married to Ripstop, but you can get some wonderful effects with dying cotton and silk. This kite is hand dyed/painted cotton, and won cooperative class at Nationals in Delaware.



Batik has always worked well on cotton and silk, and I strongly suspect that it these fabrics will work better than Ripstop for this medium. Developing a Batik method for Ripstop is a great idea, but don't dismiss cotton or silk simply because you don't think that they will make a reasonable or competative kite.

Dave
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KiteSquid
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK a couple of things I want to talk about..

RIT dye or any other dye you buy that says that it will dye cotton as well a Nylon.

Those fibers use two diffrent familys of dyes, so the nice people at RIT mix both MX and Acid dyes and put them in the little boxes.

So half of the contents of the box goes down the drain as it does not fix to the fibers you are dying.

It works well if you are dying a pair of socks but it is just not cost effective for yardage... but who said my posts were cost effective.......




Tina's question on Acid Dyes.

I have uses the dyes from Dharma Trading and from Pro Chemical & Dye, and both work EXCELENT!!!!!!! please read the MSDS for all chemicals BEFORE you buy them. It is your heath and the health of your family!!!!!!!!


The secret ingredant, well I dont quite have the chemestry down to a science yet, but I am willing to share what I know works and what I know does NOT work.... Are you ready???? Are you sitting down????


For Direct application of dyes (tye dye, silk paining techinques or any process where you are applying the dyes to the fabric by brush or squirting on)

Now this is based on the recipey from the dye vendor....

For Nylon fibers I replace about 1/2 of the water with Denatured Alcohol.....

For Polyester Fibers I replace about 1/2 of the water with Denatured Alcohol.....


I would prefer to use 100% Ethonol but I cannot find it here in Virginia and I cant afford to set up my own still.....

I would prefer to use pure Ethonol as Denatured Alcohol has stuff in it that makes you sick if you drink it, but it is mostly Ethonol. Please do not use Methanol.... It can kill you!!!!!!!!!

I use Alcohol as it is NOT repelled by the coatings and allows the dyes access to the fibers of the cloth...

Also sense Polyester is Hygrophobic (water is NOT attracted to it) I use the alcohol to cary the dye to the fibers.....


But the dyes do not stay in supension long so you have to shake your bottles of dye OFTEN, I am working on finding a water soulable oil that would work. I have bought some Castor Oil to test and am looking for some machineing oils as I understand that some of them are water soulable.


Now for vat dying...

I do NOT use Alcohol.... I just use the recepy that the dye vendor supplys.............. but I do try to get the PH of the soup to 6 or less by adding Citric Acid Crystals (oranges and lemons).... as it smells so much nicer that Acedic Acid (vinager)


Now for fabrics......

NO two fabrics are the same..... so cut a little piece off the yardage and test it before you go to the trouble of aplying art to it, as the coatings between two manufactures will differ a lot, so find a fabric that works (like the 0.5 Oz Nylon that Steve had on sale a while back as I KNOW it works or some other fabric and STICK TO IT!!!! Ask Steve WHO manufacutered the fabric and what is the manufactures name for the fabric (go to the manufacture's web sites to see that there are lots of diffrent .75 Oz Nylons on the market) and once you have a forumula that works STICK TO IT and share with us.

I cannot share about the Nylons that I have dyed as they all have came out of my trash pile (except the little piece of 0.5 Oz from Steve) so I dont know what the fabric really is......


Now class, are there any other questions????

Once again READ and UNDERSTAD the MSDS for all chemicals BEFORE you buy them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SAFETY FIRST when dealing with chemicals and tools!!!!!!


OH and when you got to measure any dyes and auxiluries, use tools that will NEVER be used for food!!!!!! EVER!!!!!! As this is UNSAFE!!!!!! I have tools that do NOT look like the ones in the kitchen and I keep them out of the kitchen so they will not be confused with food utensles!!!!!!!!!

Sepprate pots, measureing cups and spoons, mixing tools, storage jars etc...... all are diffrent than what is in the kitchen.

DO YOU UNDERSTAND THE POINT HERE???????

Also wear clothing that you do'nt care about when dyeing fabrics......

NO EATING, DRINKING OR SMOKING WHEN YOU ARE USING DYES!!!!!! EVER!!!!!






And like Dave said, Cotton, Silk, Hemp, Paper and other fibers work in kites too.

Look at any kite from China or Japan.....

I'll jump off the electronic soap box for a while as my keyboard is smoking..

And if you do dye fabrics using my advice please tell others that is is based on the SquidColors technique......... Very Happy as I have abut 3 years of reasearch in this already.... and countless $$$$$$$$$$$ invested.
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KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA


P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.
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ChaoticGemini



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THANK YOU KiteSquid Very Happy I will be happy to proclaim SquidColors.

I guess I'll make my first attemps with some of the .5 oz that was on sale since you know that works. I have 30 yards of it, but I hadn't figured out what to do with it yet.

Just two more questions, if you don't mind...Will the fabric need to be prep-ed first? I know I've used soda ash with this type of process before. Where would I look for Denatured Alcohol?

Again, your info is very helpful and I'm very excited to get to work.

Tina
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kitepoor



Joined: 05 Sep 2003
Posts: 318
Location: USA Virginia Harrisonburg

PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can get denatured at a paint store. Cabinet shops that do solid surface countertops use it to clean before glueing seams.
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