Kitebuilder.com

Spence602 · Joined: 16 Sep 2003 Posts: 475 Location: USA TX Houston

I've seen a couple different posts inquiring about a hot-cutter that cuts too hot, or a suggestion to use a dimmer, but I haven't seen a schematic.

Until now (Now updated to a 'safer and standard' example). Cool

This is an example - not the gospel.

It's an Americanized version - all of you outside the US will have to figure out a version which works for you.

Once it's built, put a faceplate on it and test out the correct heat settings for different types (and layers) of material, and use a Sharpie to mark the setting.

HTH
_________________
Spence
www.kiteshark.org

Air: Refreshing when stirred up and served cool on a hot day.

smarties · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 9:04 am Post subject:

Thanks for you drawing Spence602. Very easy to understand.

As an electrical engineer, I have to suggest some slight changes to be more "safe and standard". Normally the left prong on a power outlet is the neutral. I would recommend that the dimmer is connected on the right prong instead where the live wire is as shown below. Sorry for the bad resolution. Embarassed

In Canada, the black is the live wire and the white is the neutral.

_________________
Smarties Razz

http://smarties42.webpal.info/index-en.html

To boldly go where no imagination as gone before! Very Happy

mhartzel · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 9:07 am Post subject:

To the best of my knowledge, (at least what I have seen while working on my own house)
Standard US 110/115 AC voltage wire colors are:
Black for Hot
White for Neutral
Bare copper for ground

The colors in the picture should be reserved for DC voltage, unless you are running multiple switches for one light (like at the top and bottom of your basement stairs)
Then the colors of the 4 wires are
Black, Red, white and Copper.

Another variation on the picture is to use a 1 gang (or single outlet) box to house the rheostat, a short 3 wire extension cord and have the outputs go to the female end of the extension cord.
_________________
Mark
Sand, Street or Sky... I love to fly.

- Take back the web.

Spence602 · Joined: 16 Sep 2003 Posts: 475 Location: USA TX Houston

@ Smarties

Thanks! I'll replace my picture with your picture (if you don't mind)...

@mhartzel

It's an extension cord (of sorts), not 'house' wiring. When I go to the 'home improvement' store, they have all sorts of wiring to choose from.

Personally, I used some Romex (sheathed 12-gauge 4-strand) I had left over from an outdoor pool project. My outlet is above my work surface, and with the heavy gauge wire, I can position my 'box' by bending the wire, and then bending it to get it out of my way when I'm not using it.
_________________
Spence
www.kiteshark.org

Air: Refreshing when stirred up and served cool on a hot day.

CJQ · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 12:52 pm Post subject: Dimmer Control

Hi Guy's, The 15 AMP I25 VOLT PLUG will have a brass colored terminal for the black wire , a silver colored terminal for the neuteral or white colored wire and a green colored terminal for the green ground safety wire. Some dimmers will have a green wire pigtail or green screw for attaching a ground wire to it, just as the duplex outlet. SO there will be a green wire connection that will go from the male plug and attach the Metal Box housing the devices then to the outlet and also the dimmer , this will safety bond everything ,thus eliminatinga shock hazard . Want all of you fellow kiters to be safe!!!

CLIFF

KiteSquid · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 12:58 pm Post subject:

BTW Dimmers are NOT for inductive loads... so DONT plug anyting with a motor or transformer into this rig.

That includes the Engle Hot Cutter that Steve sells..... It has a step down transformer.....

You will know when the dimmer explodes....

To modify a dimmer to operate an inductive load look HERE for how somebody did one quite a few years ago, but he does not state what model of dimmer he used.....so Caviet Emptor.

Or you can buy a "router speed control" to do the same job at higher wattages, but dont buy the one from Harbor Freight as the one I bought did not do the job well........... They are EXPENSIVE like $60 or more for a good one.
_________________
VR/
KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA

P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked

Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.

skydino · Joined: 12 Dec 2003 Posts: 183 Location: TX

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43060

GOOD for even an old sewing machine

If you are going to make one use a speed control for a ceiling fan type !

CJQ · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2004 4:48 pm Post subject: Heat controler

Hi Sky dyno, Harbor freight product---Good deal can't beat that with a stick!! Also a controler ( dimmer/ speed control ) for a Casa Blanca Ceiling fan produces a Sinesotal output good for inductive loads. Smarties correct me if i'm wrong.

CLIFF

KiteSquid · Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2004 7:59 am Post subject:

I have that Harbor Freight Router Speed Control and it did not work well on a motor I wanted to control that was within it's aperage limits...

Oh well...

BTW you milage may vary...
_________________
VR/
KiteSquid
AKA TakoIka
AKA Harold
King George VA

P.S. Yet another post by the Squid..... Shocked

Doesent he ever shut up???

P.P.S. The wind is like the air, only pushier.

smarties · Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:19 am Post subject: Re: Heat controler