Epoxy Glue

The minute designations for epoxies refer to the working time, i.e., the time one has before the epoxies begin to set up after being mixed in a large mass.

Epoxies bond best to clean, textured surfaces. Smooth, non-porous surfaces should be roughened with coarse sandpaper to improve adhesion.

Purchase from the Notions Category in our Catalog >>

Some of the Super Glues we carry:

QUIK-CURE™ 5 min. epoxy cures to a slightly flexible consistency. This lack of brittleness allows it to form a lasting bond in areas subjected to high vibration or stress. QUIK-CURE™ shouldn’t be used in areas that are subject to long-term immersion in water; however, it works fine for the internal structure of wood framed boats. QUIKCURE™ is our only epoxy on which you can apply polyester resins. It can be mixed with microballoons to form a quick setting putty. Items bonded with QUIK-CURE™ can be handled after 15 minutes. Full strength is reached in 1 hour.

SLOW-CURE™ 30 min. epoxy works best for forming reinforcing fillets on joints. It has the highest strength of our epoxies. It is waterproof and more heat resistant. SLOW-CURE™ can be used for bonding if you’re willing to wait overnight. Fillers such as microballoons can be mixed with SLOW-CURE™ and FINISH-CURE™ to form a putty-like consistency. Such fillers will usually decrease the working time by about 25%. Bonded objects can be handled after 8 hours and the cured epoxy reaches full strength within 24 hours.

How to use Epoxy Glue: If CAs are the cure-all for just about all bonding problems, you may be wondering, "Why do I need epoxy?" One primary reason is price. Epoxy costs are about one fourth that of CA. When large objects are being bonded, economics can be a deciding factor on choice of adhesive. The specific characteristics of epoxies also give them advantages in some applications. All our epoxies are mixed with a 50-50 ratio. Any scrap material or paper scratch pad can be used as a mixing surface. We have found, however, that the plastic tops to coffee cans work best due to their outer border and their flexibility, which allows the unused cured epoxy to be released and thrown away.

Squeeze out equal length beads of the desired amount of epoxy, then mix together thoroughly with a popsicle stick or scrap piece of material. In cold weather, epoxy takes longer to cure (too cold and usually they never fully cure) and becomes more difficult to get out of the bottle, especially if it’s less than 1/2 full. The epoxies can be heated in a microwave oven for about 10 seconds so that they flow easier. The heating process, with the caps off, also releases any moisture that can be absorbed by epoxies. Their shelf life, therefore, is virtually unlimited.

Acetone works as the best solvent for cleaning epoxy from brushes and unwanted surfaces before it cures. If epoxy gets on surfaces that acetone will attack, use isopropyl alcohol. We do not recommend any additives for thinning epoxies due to their effect on curing and overall strength. If thin epoxy is required, either use heat or switch to EX-SLOW™ or FINISH-CURE™. Epoxies bond best to clean, textured surfaces. Smooth, non-porous surfaces should be roughened with coarse sandpaper to improve adhesion.

A small amount of CA can be used in strategic locations to hold parts in place while the epoxies cure. The minute designations for epoxies refer to the working time, i.e., the time one has before the epoxies begin to set up after being mixed in a large mass. When spread into thinner layers, the working time in increased significantly (except QUIK-CURE™). Working time decreases approximately 25% at temperatures above 90 degrees F. Don’t panic if your skin comes in contact with either epoxy or CA.

While contact should be avoided, uncured epoxy can be washed from your skin with soap and water. Allergic reactions are rare. Cured epoxy and CA can be peeled off the skin and usually are gone after a full day of normal activity. UN-CURE™ will debond any body parts that get stuck together if a peeling action (never pulling) doesn’t part them.

rally a little less brittle and have higher strength when they are allowed to cure on their own.

How to glue ferrels:

STEP ONE: Prepare the surface. Most important step. Clean the part where the
glue goes. If it's external use fine sandpaper. If it's internal, use a
internal rod cleaning brush and rubbing alcohol, clean the dust and
mandrel release agent out of the inside of the stick. Let it dry. Now you
can apply the glue. You have 2 choices: CA /super glue; or, 2 part epoxy.

First, CA or super glue, available in 3 thickness'. Water thin GLU05, medium
GLU06, and thick GLU07. The correct thickness to use is dependent on the
fit. Tight fit, use thin glue. Loose fit, use thick gap filling glue. And
finally, after you apply the glue, give the joint a spray with Insta-set
ACC10, a cure accelerator which instantly holds the joint, allowing the rest
of the glue to cure without movement giving you the strongest joint
possible with CA glue.

Second, Epoxy, 5 minute TWS70 or 30 minute TWS12. Super strong, 2 ton, 30
minute stuff, takes 30 minutes to cure. Since I'm building kites, not
rockets, the only time I use it is for tow points or extremely high stress
points. The rest of the time, which is most of the time, I use the 5 minute
stuff which is my glue of choice. The stuff is a little stinky while its
wet, but you get used to it. Using a spatula or wood popsicle stick and a
piece of oaktag, squeeze out equal parts of A & B, mix well, you now have 5
minutes till hard. Reason most people do not like it , it's messy. Here
is the secret. You need a bottle of rubbing alcohol from the drugstore, and
paper towels.

When the glue is wet, it comes off with a paper towel soaked in alcohol.
More info, soon to be available, a Tech Paper on glue